clean cosmetics

vitamin E

2010-03-03T17:31:00.000-08:00

just a quick note/tip.....

Most lip gloss's and lip balms in the general market (meaning not green companies that I've either written about or am still investigating) contain petroleum jelly which is very unhealthy. It's unhealthy primarily because it's carcenogenic but also it traps in heat on the skin. It's a common misconception that Vaseline is soothing for burns or chapped lips but because when applied to the skin it traps in heat, actually worsening the burn vs. healing it. Petroleum jelly has also been known to cause a type of pneumonia called Lipid Pneumonia....

(FROM RESEARCH
Improper uses
As the substance became more common in households, it began to be used for a number of medical purposes, some of which medical science has shown to be dangerous or damaging.
Fresh Burns
It should not be used on fresh burns of any kind, including sunburn. Petrolatum traps heat inside, worsening burns. After heat has dissipated, however, it can serve as a dressing for minor burns to soothe later pain.[6]
Nasal congestion or dryness
If particles of petrolatum are inhaled from the nose, they may deposit in the lungs and lead to a condition called lipid pneumonia.
Personal Lubricant
Because petroleum jelly is oil-based, it interferes with the structure of latex. Using petroleum jelly with latex condoms weakens the material very quickly, increasing the chance of rupture. Thus it is not recommended for use during sexual intercourse when using a latex condom.)

but a few quick alternatives:

take a vitamin E liquid caplet, poke a hole in it with a safety pin or needle, and squeeze the liquid directly on to your lip. It's a perfect lipgloss because it has the benefits of vitamin E directly for moisture and hydration and it has a great shine....

an alternative to vaseline for soothing burns is aloe. Buy yourself an aloe plant and when you need something soothing if you burn yourself cooking or whatever, break off a chunk from the leaf of the plant and use the liquid directly on your skin. You'll find that your burn will feel cooler as well as smooth.

another home remedy for a sunburn that i've used myself is Avocado. I remember once when I was in college, I laid out all day not having applied any SPF and by nightfall my legs were so burnt it was hard to walk. I was in so much pain and so desperate for relief that I took an avocado and smeared it all over my legs and they felt so much better. it makes sense that it worked because Avocados are a big source of vitamin E.

research regarding chemicals in cosmetics

2010-02-22T18:47:00.000-08:00

This week I thought it was important for me to share some of the reading I've done regarding the controversy surrounding the harmful effects of certain chemicals and preservatives in Cosmetics. Just like alternative medicine in the world of pharmaceuticals, acknowledging the root of the problem is considered "controversial" because of the potential effect on certain companies financially. I'm not arguing that more research needs to be done...in fact I'm hoping that my blog is part of a movement to get more information. The more we know about preventative care, the better off we will be.

Here's a summary of some of the info I've come across....it's a lot of information but it's worth reading....

Parabens are a class of chemicals widely used as preservatives in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Parabens are effective preservatives in many types of formulas. These compounds, and their salts, are used primarily for their bactericidal and fungicidal properties. They can be found in shampoos, commercial moisturizers, shaving gels, personal lubricants, topical/parenteral pharmaceuticals, spray tanning solution and toothpaste. They are also used as food additives.
Their efficacy as preservatives, in combination with their low cost, their long history of safe use and the unproven efficacy of natural alternatives like grapefruit seed extract (GSE),[1] probably explains why parabens are so commonplace. They are becoming increasingly controversial, however, and some organizations which adhere to the precautionary principle object to their everyday use.[2]

Chemistry

Parabens are esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid, from which the name is derived. Common parabens include methylparaben (E number E218), ethylparaben (E214), propylparaben (E216) and butylparaben. Less common parabens include isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, benzylparaben and their sodium salts. The general chemical structure of a paraben is shown at top right, where R symbolizes an alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl.
[edit]Occurrence

Some parabens are found naturally in plant sources. For example, methylparaben is found in blueberries,[3][4][5] where it acts as an antimicrobial agent. However, when parabens are eaten, they are metabolised and lose the ester group, making them less strongly estrogen-mimicking.[6]
[edit]Synthesis

All commercially used parabens are synthetically produced, although some are identical to those found in nature. They are produced by the esterification of para-hydroxybenzoic acid with the appropriate alcohol. para-Hydroxybenzoic acid is in turn produced industrially from a modification of the Kolbe-Schmitt reaction, using potassium phenoxide and carbon dioxide.
[edit]Toxicology

Studies on the acute, subchronic, and chronic effects in rodents indicate that parabens are practically non-toxic.[7][8] Parabens are rapidly absorbed, metabolized, and excreted.[7] The major metabolites of parabens are p-hydroxybenzoic acid (pHBA), p-hydroxyhippuric acid (M1), p-hydroxybenzoyl glucuronide (M3), and p-carboxyphenylsulfate (M4).[9]
[edit]Allergic reactions
In individuals with normal skin, parabens are, for the most part, non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Parabens can, however, cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis and Rosacea in individuals with paraben allergies, a small percentage of the general population.[10]
[edit]Breast cancer
Several peer-reviewed studies have reported results that indirectly support a correlation between the presence of parabens and the occurrence of breast cancer. High levels of parabens have been detected in breast tumors,[11][12] with one UK-based study finding high concentrations of parabens in eighteen out of twenty samples of breast tumors.[12] These findings, along with the demonstrated ability of parabens to mimic estrogen, a hormone known to play a role in the development of breast cancers,[12] have led some scientists to conclude that the presence of parabens does correlate with the occurrence of breast cancer,[6][13] and to call for investigation into whether or not a causal link exists.[14] The lead researcher of the UK study, molecular biologist Philippa Darbre, reported that the ester-bearing form of the parabens found in the tumors indicate that they came from something applied to the skin, such as an underarm deodorant, cream or body spray, and stated that the results helped to explain why up to 60% of all breast tumors are found in just one-fifth of the breast - the upper-outer quadrant, nearest the underarm.[6] "From this research it is not possible to say whether parabens actually caused these tumors, but they may certainly be associated with the overall rise in breast cancer cases. Given that breast cancer is a large killer of women and a very high percentage of young women use underarm deodorants, I think we should be carrying out properly funded, further investigations into parabens and where they are found in the body," says Dr. Philip Harvey, an editor of the Journal of Applied Toxicology, which published the research.[6] A 2004 study at Northwestern University found that an earlier age of breast cancer diagnosis related to more frequent use of antiperspirants/deodorants and underarm shaving.[15] "I personally feel there is a very strong correlation between the underarm hygiene habits and breast cancer," said immunologist Dr. Kris McGrath, the author of the study.[13]
This research has fueled a popular belief that the parabens in underarm deodorants and other cosmetics can migrate into breast tissue and contribute to the development of tumors.
No direct evidence of a causal link between parabens and cancer, however, has been shown. A 2005 review of the data available at that time concluded "it is biologically implausible that parabens could increase the risk of any estrogen-mediated endpoint, including effects on the male reproductive tract or breast cancer" and that "worst-case daily exposure to parabens would present substantially less risk relative to exposure to naturally occurring endocrine active chemicals in the diet such as the phytoestrogen daidzein."[16] The American Cancer Society also concludes that there is currently insufficient scientific evidence to support a claim that use of cosmetics such as antiperspirants increase an individual's risk of developing breast cancer; the ACS, however, goes on to state that "larger studies are needed to find out what effect, if any, parabens might have on breast cancer risk.[17]
While current studies do not causally link parabens with tumors, neither do these studies demonstrate that parabens are safe; the long-term health effects of exposure to parabens are essentially unknown.[18]
[edit]Estrogenic activity
Animal experiments have shown that parabens have weak estrogenic activity, acting as xenoestrogens.[19] In an in vivo study, the effect of butylparaben was determined to be approximately 100,000 times weaker than that of estradiol, and was only observed at a dose level approximately 25,000 times higher than the level typically used to preserve products.[20]The study also found that the in vivo estrogenic activity of parabens is reduced by about three orders of magnitude compared to in vitro activity.
The estrogenic activity of parabens increase with the length of the alkyl group. It is believed that propylparaben is estrogenic to a certain degree as well,[21] though this is expected to be less than butylparaben by virtue of its less lipophilic nature. Since it can be concluded that the estrogenic activity of butylparaben is negligible under normal use, the same should be concluded for shorter analogs.
Some estrogens are known to drive the growth of tumors; however the estrogenic activity and mutagenic activity of estrogens are not the same, with the latter dependent on free radical chemistry and not estrogen receptor activity.[22] Nonetheless, this study has elicited some concern about the use of butylparaben, and to a lesser extent other parabens as well, in cosmetics and antiperspirants. A 2005 safety assessment of parabens concluded that cosmetics containing parabens do not, on the basis of currently available evidence, pose a health risk; because of the low doses involved and the low probability that parabens will penetrate into the tissue, remain intact, and accumulate there.[7]
Nevertheless, the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) stated in 2006 that the available data on parabens do not enable a decisive response to the question of whether propyl, butyl and isobutyl paraben can be safely used in cosmetic products at individual concentrations up to 0.4%, which is the allowed limit in the EU.[23]
[edit]Controversy

The above-mentioned studies have resulted in scientific debate that in turn led to popular controversy largely propagated by mass e-mail.[24][25] The controversy has led to some concerns (both over possible carcinogenicity[26] as well as estrogenic effects[27]) being expressed over the continued use of parabens as preservatives.
The mainstream cosmetic industry believes that parabens, like most cosmetic ingredients, are safe based on their long term use and safety record and recent scientific studies.[28] Public interest organizations which raise awareness about cosmetic ingredients believe that further research is necessary to determine the safety of parabens (see also precautionary principle).[26] The concerns about endocrine disruptors have led consumers and companies searching for paraben free alternatives.[29] The ingredient grapefruit seed extract that is promoted as a natural preservative was identified with the preservative methylparaben.[1]

In many countries colours in cosmetics are listed as numbers from the Colour Index International. The scheme covers colours used in food, personal care products, cosmetics, household products and fabric dyeing. So, for example you will not normally see tartrazine listed in lipstick ingredients, but it may be there listed as C.I. 19140. Erythrosine will be listed as C.I. 45430, and so on. In US and Canada colors are listed as FD & C colors. tartrazine (E012) is FD & C Yellow 5 and erythrosine (E127) is FD & C Red 3.

Lipstick is known to have been used around 5000 years ago in ancient Babylon, when semi-precious jewels were crushed and applied to the lips and occasionally around the eyes. Ancient Egyptians extracted purplish-red dye from fucus-algin, 0.01% iodine, and some bromine mannite, which resulted in serious illness. Cleopatra had her lipstick made from crushed carmine beetles, which gave a deep red pigment, and ants for a base.[5]
The red color of modern lipstick can come from synthetically derived pure iron oxide (one of the components of rust), however most leading brands use the more economical synthetic colors. In the United States, every batch of synthetic dye and pigment must have a sample sent to the US FDA for testing and certification that the batch is pure and its contaminants are below the levels specified by law (Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act CHAPTER VII—GENERAL AUTHORITY SUBCHAPTER B--COLORS LISTING AND CERTIFICATION OF COLOR ADDITIVES FOR FOODS, DRUGS, AND COSMETICS [1]). Synthetic colours are listed in the ingredients as a code (eg: F &D red no 6) and may contain up to 10 parts per million of lead / 3 parts per million of arsenic. (Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21, Volume 1 -FOOD AND DRUGS, CHAPTER I--FOOD AND DRUG ADMINISTRATION, DEPARTMENT OF HEALTH AND HUMAN SERVICES, PART 74--LISTING OF COLOR ADDITIVES SUBJECT TO CERTIFICATION) There is some controversy over the presence of these trace ingredients, especially since makeup worn on the lips is not just absorbed through the skin, but also swallowed with drinking and eating. Since lowering these levels would make the production and sale of practically all lipstick illegal, and since the FDA has determined that the existing levels are safe, the cosmetic industry continues to produce and sell lipstick. (Color Additives: FDA's Regulatory Process and Historical Perspectives)[2]
Typically, the pigment is crushed very finely (7 to 10 micrometres) while being mixed with castor oil and is then mixed with a wax base to form a finished lipstick.
Lipsticks may be sheer or dense, matte or shiney. In their thinnest and most fluid consistency they are given their own category, lipgloss.

Possible health effects

Sunset Yellow is a sulfonated version of Sudan I, a possible carcinogen, which is frequently present in it as an impurity. Sunset Yellow itself may be responsible for causing an allergic reaction in people with an aspirin intolerance,[1] resulting in various symptoms including gastric upset, diarrhoea, vomiting, nettle rash (urticaria) and swelling of the skin (angioedema).[2] The colouring has also been linked to hyperactivity in young children.[3] As a result of these problems, there have been repeated calls for the total withdrawal of Sunset Yellow from food use.
On 6 September 2007, the British Food Standards Agency revised advice on certain artificial food additives, including E110. Professor Jim Stevenson from Southampton University, and author of the report, said: "This has been a major study investigating an important area of research. The results suggest that consumption of certain mixtures of artificial food colours and sodium benzoate preservative are associated with increases in hyperactive behaviour in children.
Professor Jim Stevenson, the lead researcher, stated, "However, parents should not think that simply taking these additives out of food will prevent hyperactive disorders. We know that many other influences are at work but this at least is one a child can avoid."[4]
The following additives were tested in the research:
Sunset yellow (E110) (FD&C Yellow #6) - Colouring found in squashes
Carmoisine (E122) - Red colouring in jellies
Tartrazine (E102) (FD&C Yellow #5) - Yellow colouring
Ponceau 4R (E124) - Red colouring
Sodium benzoate (E211) - Preservative
Quinoline yellow (E104) - Food colouring
Allura red AC (E129) (FD&C Red #40) - Orange/red food dye[5]
On 10 April 2008, the Foods Standard Agency called for a voluntary removal of the colours (but not sodium benzoate) by 2009.[6] In addition, it recommended that there should be action to phase them out in food and drink in the European Union (EU) over a specified period.[7]
It is banned in Norway and Finland.[8]
In August 2008 a proposed EU deal specified that food and drinks containing any of six artificial colourings (mentioned above) that may be linked to hyperactive behaviour in children will have to carry warnings, including Sunset Yellow. The requirement would apply to imports as well as those made in the EU.[9] Hundreds of products containing the colourings are expected to disappear from shops in the period 2008-2010 following the Food Standards Agency's (FSA) call for a voluntary ban on their use in food products.[9] UK ministers have agreed that the six colourings will be phased out by 2009.[10]
EFSA has decided on 2009-09-24 to lower the Acceptable Daily Intake (ADI) for Sunset Yellow FCF from 2.5 mg/kg to 1.0 mg/kg bodyweight per day. Unpurities in the production may leave unsulphonated aromatic amines in concentrations of 100 mg/kg which may be associated with carcinogenicity. Also a study by McCann et al. found that mixtures of four synthetic colours plus the preservative sodium benzoate (E211) cause increased hyperactivity in humans. Sensitivity reactions may occur when Sunset Yellow FCF is mixed with other synthetic colours. Also the EFSA panel noted that the JECFA limit for lead is ≤ 2 mg/kg whereas the EC specification is ≤ 10 mg/kg. The colour additive can also increase the intake of aluminium beyond the tolerable weekly intake (TWI) of 1 mg/kg/week. Therefore the limit for aluminum may become adjusted to accommodate for this.[11]

Cover FX

2010-02-01T13:39:00.001-08:00

2 years ago at the makeup show in NYC I stumbled across a makeup line called Cover FX. I chatted with the sales rep for a bit and had her try some of the products on me. I found out that they not only sell it online but that Sephora carries it as well. They do not make eyeshadows and blushes. They do make a bronzer in a few different shades but it is primarily a foundation, concealer and powder line. I wasn't in love with all of the products but I could definitely see the potential and absolutely get behind their goals.

This makeup line originated as a medical makeup line used in hospitals for burn victims. So it is quite literally a medical grade makeup line. All of the products include minerals in the ingredients and some of the creamy products contain moisturizing properties such as vitamin E to soothe the skin as it color corrects. I've used the concealer on photoshoots and on myself, and have learned recently that this product line is used by makeup artists working in Television. I can see why they use it for TV because it is mostly a full coverage kind of makeup best for the very bright lights used when filming that medium.

In my experience, what I've learned from working on films being shot in HD is that you have to be careful on set when the lights being used are not the extremely bright TV lights. When working with cameras like the newer, very popular Red camera for example, a key point to remember as a makeup artist/hairstylist is that the lens will pick up every single strand of hair out of place or a dry patch of skin and magnify it. So the goal is to be able to manipulate the full covering effects of this kind of makeup and blend it in to submission not only for Film and TV but also for everyday wear. In other words, to apply it in a way so that it's there but not really there.

here's what i've experimented with from this line:

1. Concealer/ Cream Foundation: With this particular line, the cream foundation is also the concealer. It is extremely full coverage so the trick is finding the best way to achieve both concealing and balancing the skin using a few different tones of color. And as a matter of fact they have a starter kit that helps you step by step with this. But let me start from the beginning.

For years I've used one color of foundation all over the face on myself and on clients as most people do, but what happens is that it creates a flat face ( if you've seen news casters on TV recently you know what I mean by a flat face ). As time has gone by I realized what was missing and have been working to perfect the art of blending 3-4 colors to create the best flawless skin tone possible.

We tend to forget when we are trying to create flawless skin, that we have bone structure. So when we only apply one color we eliminate that bone structure and have to recreate it by highlighting and contouring which can look very made up as the end result. Having said all that, the starter kit, is the perfect introduction to blending 3 shades of foundation together to get the perfect skin tone.

The starter kit comes in Fair, Medium and Dark. It contains a palette of 3 foundation colors with a mineral translucent powder, the skin prep which is their primer for makeup, and a foundation brush. On the back of the box they give you step by step instructions with a picture of where and how to use the 3 colors. Ultimately you will find the best method for yourself as you practice blending but as a beginner their instructions are pretty accurate.

2. Skin Prep: Their skin prep is their primer. It is meant to be applied directly to the skin to prepare the skin for makeup. The consistency is much like a serum. A serum is a sort of liquid meant to hydrate the skin as the step before moisturizer. In this case they are using it as a way of making it easier to blend the makeup. Of course, that was not my experience. Let me elaborate......

I wasn't a fan of the skin prep. Not only did I try it to prep the skin using Cover FX's makeup but I also tried it underneath other foundations from various companies and found the same problem. I found that even though it felt good on the skin it really just sat on the surface almost creating a slippery base for the foundation which then made it hard to blend. I found that as the day wore on my skin went back to appearing dry and dehydrated because the skin prep wasn't doing the job they said it should. And on a photoshoot I found I needed to powder more than usual because the models skin was extra shiny from the prep.

So the other night, not wanting to give up on this stuff, considering it covers my blemishes very well, I tried my old faithful standby. I washed my face and then used Dr. Hauschka's Rose Day Cream to moisturize. I then applied my "fair" palette from the starter kit using my own modified version of the blending technique, powdered my face and took a look. As I've said before, the Rose Day Cream is amazing. It made all the difference. My skin was balanced, hydrated, glowing and the makeup didn't look heavy at all. It lasted all night without touchups and I was very happy! It just goes to show you that when you find something that works well with makeup you should stick with it. Using the Rose Day Cream as a base, I would definitely recommend the cream foundation for sure!

3. Translucent powder: It's a really nice powder. It sets the makeup well but doesn't look chalkey. It's a mineral powder so it's not too matte, it has just the slightest hint of a glow but not shimmery. I really like it.....:)

4. Mineral Foundation Powder: The mineral foundation powder that they carry is very beautiful as far as how it finishes the skin but it's extremely full coverage. Most of the mineral foundation powders I'm familiar with have the capability of being full coverage but you can build it that way, it's not like that from the first stroke of the brush. This one is. The packaging needs a little help. They don't make it easy to not get powder everywhere , making a mess, and the applicator is strange. I think it's supposed to be a sponge applicator that is shaped like a brush but when you use it it's like you're painting the powder in thick streaks across your face. I had to then take a regular blush brush and forcefully blend the powder away. It didn't work very well and I looked very made up. As I said the finish is beautiful, like a porcelain doll with a bit of sparkle. But the work isn't worth it. There are better mineral powder foundations out there, but give it a try......maybe it'll work for you.

5. Liquid Foundation: I'm not sure what they were doing with this product. It's pasty and thick but doesn't cover very well. It also doesn't blend very well. it just sort of stays in the spot where it was applied and doesn't move. I think it could have potential with a bit of time and experimentation but I found what I needed with the cream foundation mixed with the Dr. Hauschka Rose day Cream. This just seemed like an unnecessary step.

I'm glad I was able to make the cream foundation work for me because I understand the importance of a line like this. It's primarily for people with skin discoloration from serious burns to simple genetics. But genetics doesn't have to mean big dark spots or big white spots. It could be something minor like my red apple cheeks that every girl in my family has. They get super red at times and I get self-conscious. Everyone wants to feel beautiful but also it's hard to find a good foundation in the green/clean makeup world that covers well, can be the right color scheme, and still make you feel like yourself.

Cover FX will work if you use it correctly. :)

Tarte: A full take

2010-01-20T12:31:00.000-08:00

So as I promised I went back to Sephora to finish checking out Tarte's product line. The green section is pretty thorough meaning they have eyeshadows, mascaras, blushes and lip colors as well as the foundations, powders, concealers and bronzers I wrote about last week. The selection isn't huge but it's enough to have some fun with makeup.

What I realized I had to be careful of was to make sure I read every product box in order to know that what I was looking at was part of the green section. They still have some products which contain Parabens and such. I'm assuming that they are phasing those few items out because most of the makeup seemed to have the green ingredients listed. Most of the green boxes have a small title on the front underneath the brand name which says "health couture". Those are the obvious green boxes but some of the lip glosses and cheek stains don't have that written anywhere so you need to double check and read the label.

here's what I learned:

1. Eyeshadow: They have one eyeshadow palette in the green section that I've seen so far which contains about 10 shadows. The colors are mostly neutral in the sense that they aren't bright like what you would get at MAC or Makeup Forever. There are about 5 light colors, a creamy tone, a baby pink tone, a soft lilac, a slightly peach tone, and a somewhat silvery tone. There's a copper, a bronze, a deep silver, a dark brown and a black brown. The consistency is very soft and creamy even though they are dry shadows. The pigment is strong so it's not a must to use an eyeshadow primer although i always choose to use one for guaranteed long lasting ability. They are all shimmery/frosted meaning they have a more metallic finish. If you are looking for matte eyeshadow they don't have it yet at least not in the green palette. They do in the regular part of the makeup line. I was very happy with the blending capabilities of the green eyeshadows and I took a picture of myself with a finished eye look and the makeup photographed beautifully. The color was soft but I could see it just enough so that I looked made up but still like myself. The palette also comes with a double sided eyeshadow brush and a double sided eyebrow/eyeliner pencil. I would definitely recommend this palette. It's fun and practical! And honestly the packaging is pretty cute. It looks like a quilted Chanel wallet. :)

2. Cheek Stain: The cheek stains are great because the color is sheer yet it shows up on the face looking as if it's coming from underneath the surface of the skin. It's almost impossible to apply incorrectly because all you have to do is use a flat foundation brush or even better, for some of you ladies that are under time constraints, your fingers, and rub the color in to the desired part of your cheek. Personally I find that a brush is easier to work with on myself and on clients. You only have about a minute or so before the pigment begins to dry, this makes using your fingers harder to blend the color without digging in to your face to get any movement at all. With the brush I end up applying a little bit of color at a time and continue to blend each time i add more pigment. Where as, at least for me, when i use my fingers I get a bit over excited about the color and put too much on and once it dries it can no longer be blended and I look like a china doll with 2 red circles on my cheeks. Ultimately it's all individual. Whatever works best for you is always the right way.

The selection of cheek stains in the green section are few but I tried on about 3 of them and they all looked good. It seemed to me that they were relatively universal meaning even though the end result might look different on each individual it would look beautiful on all skin types. The other great thing about these cheek stains is that they come in a stick, sort of similar to a push up deodorant stick. This keeps the wet pigment from getting messy. A little of the color goes a long way so the stick will last you for quite a while as well. Definitely would recommend this product!

3. Mascara: There are about 4 different formulas in the green mascara section. I only tried one. I tried the one they call "4 day stay". It was ok. It wasn't very moist and i didn't get the desired volume that I prefer on myself. I have to be honest and say I've definitely used better green mascaras but there are a few more options within Tarte's green mascara selection so I'd say check it out and see for yourself. Lemme know what you think :)

4. Lip Color: The lip colors are the ones you really have to make sure you read the labels on, at least at Sephora. I bet if you went to the Tarte counter at a Dept. store like Bloomingdales or Bergdorf Goodeman maybe even Nordstrom, the sales associates would be able to tell you which ones are which without you having to stand there reading every package label.

The green lip colors that I tried were only the glosses. I believe they have lipsticks as well that are in the green line but the only lipsticks I saw and read labels for were not green. So i just decided to stick with trying the glosses.

The glosses are really beautiful. They are relatively sheer but there is enough pigment to look like you are wearing color and they are not sticky at all. They also had a tinted lip balm that had quite a bit of pigment that i tried and it was really pretty. It also incidentally tastes like birthday cake so that was kind of a bonus. :) it was actually my favorite of the 3 gloss formulas i tried. The only downfall is that there are only 2 colors of the balm. One is sort of a warm peach and one is a berry color similar to the Acai berry juices that are in health food stores everywhere. I tried the berry color and loved it!

All in all I'm glad I went back to Sephora to investigate more of this line. It's definitely a decent price point and not only good for regular women to know about but makeup artists too. It's definitely a sturdy green makeup line that would stand up to cameras flashing and would also hold up beautifully for an all day event like a wedding.

Stript, Tarte, Blum naturals eye cleansing pads, BWC(beauty without cruelty) eye makeup remover

2010-01-13T13:50:00.000-08:00

So this week I tried a few products. The funny thing is they were all products I stumbled upon while shopping for other things. To be honest 3 out of the 4 products were extremely disappointing. I broke out in small red bumps on my face from all of the lines except Tarte. In a way it's also kind of funny because Tarte has been a mainstream makeup line for years and very recently as I discovered they now have a small section in their makeup line free of petro-chemicals, paraben free, dye free, and GMO free. Here's what I learned:

Tarte: I purchased the starter kit from the new Natural line. It contains a primer, a liquid foundation, a concealer, a pressed mineral powder, and a bronzer. What's convenient about this kit is that it provides the steps in an easy way. When I finished everything and looked at the result, my skin looked clean, glowing and natural. The texture was creamy but not greasy and the powders both the pressed and the bronzer blend very easily into the skin rather than sitting on the surface. I would definitely recommend this line to people. I'm actually going to go back to Sephora next week to see if there are eyeshadows, lipsticks, and blushes in the natural line. I hope so.

Blum Naturals Eye-Cleansing Pads: These cleansing pads are free of parabens and synthetic fragrances and they are awful! Not only did I have to practically drag them across my face to get any makeup removed but my skin felt dry and red right above my cheekbone almost immediately. I waited for about 10 minutes to see what else would happen and when I looked in the mirror I had small red bumps in the areas that felt dry. I started to also have a burning sensation under my eyes so I went and washed my face and smeared as much moisturizer on my skin as I could. i found this stuff at Ricky's beauty supply ( a chain all over NYC) and all i can say is, "what a waste of $7.00"

BWC ( Beauty Without Cruelty eye makeup remover ): This is a creamy eyemakeup remover. It works well to take mascara off and even though it's paraben free and fragrance free my skin felt a bit disturbed from it. I'd be willing to try it again when I haven't been walking around in the cold all day or when my skin isn't still irritated from other products. I'll leave it to you to try. You can find it at wholefoods/wholebody.

Stript: I came across this line at Ricky's when I was waiting to pay at the register. It's a vegan, paraben free, mineral makeup line. So far from what I've seen they have a mineral powder foundation, a concealer stick, eye liner, and loose eye pigment. What I've tried are these few things:
The Concealer Stick: It's very thick so it covers blemishes but it doesn't quite blend on it's own. It sort of sits on the surface, so it needs a bit of manipulating like a moisturzer (maybe the Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream) and it especially needs the moisturizer using it for undereye concealing. Otherwise the coverage is decent and once blended well it looks pretty natural.
The Mineral Powder Foundation: This stuff is terrible. It looks like pancake makeup used for high school theatre productions. Not worth it at all.
The loose eye pigment: I actually kind of liked the color selection but it definitely needs a creamy base to grab on to like an eye primer/creamy concealer perhaps from a different line of makeup (not the stick from the it's own line, it won't blend on the eye lid). It needs the creamy base otherwise it just flies all over your eyelashes and under eye area.

This week was a bit of a bummer for me in my research, I guess because the product selection seemed choppy & not cohesive. I suppose that'll happen but it's frustrating. Until next week....

Peace Keeper & ZuZu Luxe

2010-01-04T14:47:00.000-08:00

I went to wholefoods/body yesterday and picked 2 makeup lines to experiment with. Both of these lines, Peace Keeper cause-metics and ZuZu Luxe, I had used 1 or 2 products from before so it just made sense to continue with them. Both lines are made from organic and natural ingredients and both cruelty free. ZuZu is also vegan, fragrance free, opthomologist tested, water resistant, and hypo allergenic (you can see these statements written on the side of the box).

Peace Keeper is a line of lip products. Lipsticks, glosses and a lip balm. 75% of the ingredients are organic (written on the box) and not only that, this company also distributes a certain amount of their proceeds to support women's issues (also written on their box). I can't say enough about this line. I love it!!! I've used the lipstick on myself, my mom uses it and I've used the lipstick and gloss on photoshoots and weddings. The pigments are strong meaning they last for quite a while.The texture is nice and creamy and stays that way, it doesn't cake up after it's been worn for a while. The gloss does need to be touched up a bit more often but not much more than a gloss from any other mainstream makeup line. I would definitely reccomend this line for both makeup artists and everyday women 100%!!!!

ZuZu Luxe is a full line of makeup. The product I had used from them before my trip to whole foods yesterday was the liquid eyeliner. The liner is great! I've been using it on photoshoots and weddings for about a year. When they say it's water resistant they mean it. Once it dries it will not move.

The other product I had used previous to my trip yesterday was the eyeshadow. The eyeshadow is tricky. The color selection they have is really nice. Very natural but with enough variety to keep it fun. The problem is the pigment only lasts for about an hour or so before it melts away. So yesterday when I was at wholefoods/body the first thing I looked for was to see if they had some sort of eyeshadow base/primer. They don't. So I looked for the next best thing; concealer. The concealer is very thick so only a drop is needed. Just blend it on to the lid as you would with a regular eye primer. Then take either your finger or preferably a stiff, flat eyeshadow brush and pack the color on by pressing it vs. sweeping the color with the brush. What this does is ensures that the pigment is grabbing on to the moisture of the concealer base therefore giving you a stronger sense of the color because you are creating layers. This will help the eyeshadow stay on longer without constant touch ups.

After I solved that problem, I continued experimenting with the rest of the makeup and here's what I discovered.

1. The concealer. After using it as an eyeshadow base I wanted to see it's coverage capabilities. It covers up blemishes very well. It's nice and thick so you can be really precise with where you place it and if you tap it in it almost blends itself. But when I used it under my eyes to help with my dark circles ( part inherited and part stress) it looked like I had 2 stripes of white paint under my eyes. At first I took the back part of my ring finger to try and blend it (the ring finger is the best for under the eye because it's small but has a good amount of flesh to help with the blending), but it didn't want to blend. So I pulled one of my makeup artist tricks out of my pocket and ran over to the Dr. Hauschka section, squeezed a bit of the Rose day cream on my finger and blended that into the concealer. What the moisturizer did was thin out the concealer enough to help it blend but did not take away from the amount of coverage that I needed. The only thing I would say is because the Rose Day Cream has essential oil in it it can be quite shiney, so i would reccomend after getting the desired affect from the concealer/moisturizer to set it with a bit of powder, loose is better than pressed but either one will do. That will eliminate the shine and also help keep the concealer in place thus lessening the chances for you needing to touch up more than once throughout the day.

2. Lipsticks/Glosses. The lipsticks are beautiful. There's a nice selection of color choices and the texture is creamy. I definitely would reccomend them. The glosses on the other hand are just okay. I wasn't super excited by them and they weren't as shiney as I usually like.

3. Liquid Eyeliner. As I mentioned before, GREAT!!!!

4. Mascara. They were sold out of black, which I took as a good sign so I tried the brown. Actually I purchased it and tried it at home. Normally I don't touch anything but black mascara, I'm kind of a stickler with that but I have to say I really liked how the brown mascara looked. And actually it didn't really look that brown on me considering I have black eyelashes to begin with. But what I was really impressed by was the way it made my lashes just a bit thicker and longer but in a subtle way. And another thing that happened without my doing it intentionally was that as I applied the mascara my lashes were crisscrossing in a way that was very natural but reminded me of a doll's lashes. I definitely would reccomend the masacara!!!

5. Pencils. Both the lip pencils and eye pencils were just fine. I wasn't blown away but they served their purpose.

6. Liquid foundation. No! Don't even bother! The colors are completely wrong. They are way too pink.

7. Blush. The color choices are few but surprisingly very pretty. I suspected what would happen with the blush pigment would be the same as with the eyeshadow so I did a bit of manuevering. Normally blush is applied to the cheeks after the face has been powdered but this time I reversed it. I felt that the blush pigment would also need something moist to grab on to so I put it on directly to my skin. Another option is you could also use whatever liquid foundation and then apply the blush on top of that and then set with powder, either way skin or the liquid foundation gives a moisturized surface for the blush to sit on. The color looked pretty and in a way I preferred that method because it looks like the color is coming from underneath the skin as if you're blushing or just went for a run. I may have to do that all the time now. I would reccomend the blush.

8. Pressed powder. It's a good pressed powder. I would say apply with a brush vs. a puff just because it can be a bit chalkey as with any powder organic or not. You just want to dust the powder where it's needed and when applied correctly it looks very natural. Definitely a good staple.

Dr. Hauschka

2009-12-30T17:11:00.000-08:00

My introduction to the Dr. Hauschka product line was a couple of years ago on a photoshoot. I was assisting a makeup artist on a job for Harper's Bazaar. The feature of the editorial was on "The Real Housewives of New York." It was a riot seeing those ladies in action.

Anyway, the makeup artist I was assisting ( Christopher Ardoff ) asked me to prep the skin of one of the "housewives" while he touched up the lipstick on another. What he meant by prepping the skin was to have me clean the face with a bit of makeup remover and then apply moisturizer to the skin as a base for foundation. The moisturizer he had was the Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream. I remember loving the scent right away and the texture was rich and emollient. I finished applying the moisturizer and waited for further instruction. I noticed almost immediately that her skin looked dewy and fresh even before he applied the foundation. And after her makeup was finished, her skin looked amazingly even and hydrated.

I decided to purchase it for myself the next day. I used that moisturizer last winter and it was great for my dry and very sensitive skin, especially in the cold air with wind burn and inside heated buildings that are way too hot and dry. It protected my skin from typical causes for sensitive skin to freak out like not washing my face at night thoroughly, excess make up, and drinking too much caffeine and not enough water. Yes, even I do this, too.

Then I decided to try a bunch of the skin care line and here's what I found out:

1. The 2 cleansers work very well but you have to figure out the best ways to use them. I think because the ingredients are all natural they take a bit more manipulating than just an ordinary cleanser or makeup remover that you just wipe on the face and everything magically disappears. With the Dr. H's cleansers you use them in steps. First you take the cleansing milk and apply it all over the face. You can either tissue it off dry which is great for makeup removal ( but not Eye makeup) or gently wipe with a damp washcloth. The next cleanser is the Cleansing Cream ( for deep cleansing and gentle exfoliating) and that you use like a regular cleanser although when applying it try massaging it in to the skin in circular movements. Remove with a damp washcloth or even better a damp muslin cloth and then remove the rest by rinsing with water directly. Even though these cleansers don't foam up like soap, don't let that throw you; your skin will be very clean if you clean it the way I suggested.

2. There are 2 toners one for dry/sensitive and one for oily. Use whichever one suits your skin type the most. This is applied after cleansing just like any other toner. But with this after you spray it on the face, tap it in with your fingers a bit to let it absorb further in to the skin.

3. The next step is moisturizer. The Rose Day Cream as I mentioned before is very rich. It's actually great to use as a night cream if you find it a bit too heavy for the day time. But for dry skin I'd recommend it for both day and night. For day time there are a few options. There is a very thin moisturizer , The Moisturizing Day Cream, and there is a lighter version of The Rose Day Cream which is The Rose Day Cream Light. Just remember like the cleansers when applying these creams you want to work them in a bit more than a regular cream because of the essential oils and other natural ingredients which can sit on the surface of the skin if not rubbed in thoroughly.

4. An eye cream is important but you may prefer light or heavy hydration. That's all individual. The Eye Cream is great for daytime and works well with eye make up. A little goes a long way. Just apply a dot under each eye and tap in with the surface of your ring finger. The Eye Balm, which has a similar consistency to a lip balm, is great for those of us who want maximum hydration but it does not work well with makeup. Although they suggest not to use the balm at night, that is when I've found it the most beneficial because it took about 8 hours for my skin to absorb it fully without a greasy residue left under my eyes. I've used it during the day when I'm at home doing things around the house and it's very soothing but personally I found it quite shiny so I choose not to wear it outside.

This cosmetic company has many other products to try. They have sunscreen, body wash, lip balm, body oils, body powder and a line of makeup. For more mature skin, they have two Regenerating products: a serum to be used after cleansing and a day cream as a regular moisturizer.

To be honest I'm not as thrilled with a lot of their makeup as I am with their skin care. What I can recommend is their loose powder, mascara, lip liners, and lipsticks. There is a product in the skincare line which to me serves more as a part of the make up regimen. It is the Toned Day Cream. It moisturizes and gives the skin a glow but because it has a tint, it results in more of a sun-kissed look as well as a shimmery even tone. I would recommend using it under liquid foundation. My preference is to use it over the nose and cheeks to look as though I've spent the day in the sun.

This line is the easiest to find and use as your introduction to clean cosmetics. You can always find it at Wholefoods/Body but many of your local health food stores carry it or would order it for you. So far, I've turned almost all of my clients on to the Rose Day Cream. I use it a lot under make up because of the flawless, dewy hydrated look it gives. Not only does it look great in person, but it photographs wonderfully.

1st step...the acknowledgement

2009-12-19T06:37:00.000-08:00

"Good skincare is the basis of good make up." All make up artists know this because the face is our canvas; yet, most women don't have flawless skin. It is one of the main reasons why photos of models are retouched to create the pictures you see in magazines. In my 8 years of working with cosmetics, I have seen all kinds of skin damage and have tried a variety of products to help camouflage these problems whether on the bride or on the model at a photoshoot. But, after years of working with conventional make up, as much fun and as beautiful as it is, I began to notice the wear and tear it causes on the skin of the women I'm making up as well as my own. This sent me on a mission to find alternative products to use that would be healthy and less damaging.

When I started as a professional make up artist, I never thought I'd arrive at using and promoting organic products. But, as they say, "everything happens for a reason," and my reason resulted from my own skincare quest. I have struggled myself for years, searching for the perfect gentle yet hydrating moisturizer to soothe the dry, red, long term after-effects of a second-degree sun burn I got when I was on a trip in Disneyworld at age 8 or 9. There were products that hydrated my skin but had too much fragrance, causing my asthma to act up. There were moisturizers that felt great right after my cleansing regimen but within ten minutes my skin would feel dry again. There were product lines that had so much alcohol in their skincare that my skin would turn bright red. Only a heavy layer of full coverage foundation would tone it down enough to look presentable at work and this inevitably gave way to breakouts. Then finally I caught wind of some other make up artists at work talking about Mineral makeup, specifically a line called La Bella Donna. So I went to investigate. Not only did it look natural and flawless, it was so easy to work with. Then something even more amazing happened, it actually started to help heal the cystic acne spots I'd begun to develop. From then on I was hooked. I've used it in photoshoots and on brides. It photographs beautifully. From there I thought, "I should look for skin care with the same healing properties. It must exist if this stuff does." And it does.

These days we are constantly dieting. Or we are reading new articles about healthy foods to increase our metabolisms or flatten our abs or improve our bone strength. And women, especially pregnant women, are extremely cautious and aware of everything they eat and drink. We take vitamin and mineral supplements, we keep journals or food logs, and we hire nutritionists to help us make better food choices. But we never really stop to think about what we are putting ON our bodies. According to Dr. Mercola, "women who use makeup on a daily basis can absorb almost five pounds of chemicals into their bodies each year" (Mercola.com). That's a little scary when you stop and really think about it. These chemicals, including parabens "have been noted as showing up in breast cancer samples." (Mercola.com)

Just as we have had to learn to read our nutrition facts on the back of our food labels, we must now take note and read the labels on our skin care and cosmetics. We must be aware of the fact that just because the word "mineral" is used to describe the particular product we may be purchasing, this does not mean that there aren't still harmful chemicals used as ingredients as well. Sometimes the word "mineral" can be used to describe how the powder was actually milled in the factory, creating a mineralized texture, not because there are mineral ingredients. Or they can use the word mineral because there is a tiny percentage of a mineral compound such as Titanium Dioxide ( a natural SPF/sunblock) at the very bottom of the ingredients label..

This list of chemicals has been selected from The Environmental Working Group’s website: www.ewg.org . Besides the problems listed here below, the EWG website links some of these chemicals to cancer among other long term affects.

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate-contains Arsenic, lead, heavy metals, causes developmental/ reproductive toxicity

BHA (a carcinogen)

DMDM Hydantoin ( contains formaldihyde)

FD&C Dyes- developmental/reproductive toxicity, neurotoxicity

Fragrance- Allergies/immunetoxicity

Oryza Sativa (rice bran oil)- contains pesticides

Polyethylene- organ system toxicity

Parabens including: Butylparaben, Ethylparaben- human skin toxicant, disruption of endocrine system, allergies/immunetoxicity

Talc- contains Abestiform fibers, affects allergies/immunetoxicity

You can find more extensive lists and information at The Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Cosmetics Safety Database: (www.ewg.org) It's an incredibly thorough website with a plethora of information about all personal care products.